Paris Fashion Week SS27: Three Debuts and a House in Limbo

Paris in September is where the industry's personnel decisions finally become clothes. This season the schedule contains two first collections, one house showing with nobody in charge, and a set of absences that say as much as the line-up does.

The Dates

Monday 28 September to Tuesday 6 October 2026, per the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode: 101 labels across 68 runway shows and 33 presentations. Julie Kegels opens on the 28th; Louis Vuitton closes on 6 October. The SPHERE showroom runs 30 September to 6 October at the Palais de Tokyo.

Debut One: Courrèges

Drew Henry presents his first Courrèges collection on 30 September. The South African designer was appointed artistic director in March 2026, inheriting a house that has spent the past few years as one of Paris's most quietly influential — the place a certain kind of sharp, minimal, slightly futuristic clothing has been coming from. It is a real test: Courrèges has a strong recent identity to either continue or break.

Debut Two: Carven

Kai Nesselrath shows a first Carven collection on 1 October, having been appointed design director in succession to Mark Thomas. Carven is the less-watched of the two debuts and possibly the more interesting, because the house has less recent identity to defend.

The House in Limbo

Alaïa appears on 3 October as a presentation rather than a show, designed by the studio. Pieter Mulier has left for Versace, and the house is showing in the interregnum — no creative director, no runway, just the clothes and the people who make them.

Studio-designed collections are usually treated as filler. They are frequently the most revealing thing a house does all year, because there is nobody's signature to hide behind.

Comings and Goings

• Returning to Paris: Valentino and Maison Margiela, after showing elsewhere; also Sacai, Casablanca, Christopher Esber and Ester Manas.
• Calendar debut: Maxhosa Africa takes an official Paris slot for the first time on 28 September.
• Absent: McQueen, which has gone home to London; Nina Ricci, after Harris Reed's exit in March; and Off-White.
• Also absent: Rabanne, reported as returning in March 2027 under Olivier Rousteing — a single-source report, so treat it as unconfirmed until the house says so.

The Rest

Everything you would expect: Dior, Saint Laurent, Chanel, Hermès, Balenciaga, Loewe, Givenchy, Celine, Miu Miu, Chloé, Schiaparelli, The Row, Stella McCartney, Rick Owens, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, Yohji Yamamoto, Jean Paul Gaultier, Mugler, Victoria Beckham, Zimmermann, Vivienne Westwood, Elie Saab, Acne Studios, Tom Ford, Dries Van Noten, Balmain, Lanvin, Isabel Marant, Cecilie Bahnsen, Ganni and Hodakova.

The Irish Question

No Irish designer appears on the published SS27 calendar. Róisín Pierce holds an FHCM house page and has shown in Paris in previous seasons, but is not on this season's published schedule — she may yet show off-calendar, and we would rather say that than assume either way.

Which leaves an odd asymmetry worth noting: the biggest Irish story of fashion month is in London, not Paris. That has not been true for a long time.

Hero photograph by Valentin bonjour on Unsplash.